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Tag: Waldau

Good weather brings the crowds

Good weather brings the crowds

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With steadily improving weather here, the crowds are out. Hoping to get out on the rock in the next few weeks including a Battert trip planned for the end of the month.

 

DAV Kletterzentrum Waldau

Another concrete climbing wall outdoors

Another concrete climbing wall outdoors

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While thumbing through the recent issue of Schwaben Alpin, the DAV magazine of my local chapter, I noticed a picture of a concrete outdoor climbing structure that I didn’t recognize in an article about nearby Boeblingen. Being curious and having only ever seen and heard of the one at Waldau, I started looking. Sure enough, there’s a very small one in Boeblingen as you can see:

 

SVB Bergsport concrete climbing wall

It’s part of the SVB Bergsport group and unfortunately NOT open to the public anymore. Nevertheless, it’s cool to see another similar structure. Does anyone know of other ones elsewhere in Germany or other countries?

My gym: DAV Kletterzentrum Stuttgart

My gym: DAV Kletterzentrum Stuttgart

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Here’s an overview of my home gym, the DAV Kletterzentrum Stuttgart. Just a five minute drive or 20 minute walk away for me, I’m incredibly thankful to be so near. Let’s begin with a few stats to give you an idea of how awesome it is.

The Gym in Numbers:

  • Climbing area (inside): 2939 m²
  • Climbing area (outside): 1087 m²
  • Wall height: 17m
  • Routes: ~320 inside / ~ 145 outside
  • Grades: 2 to 11- UIAA
  • Max climb length: 28m inside / 22 outside
  • Multipitch: YES!
  • Bonus: All route grades are listed in the UIAA, YDS and French systems!

The DAV Kletterzentrum Stuttgart

As the name suggests, the gym is run by the Deutscher Alpenverein in Stuttgart.  Located south of the city in the Waldau neighborhood, it’s easy to access by subway (u-bahn) and the largest facility in the city. Locally, most climbers simply refer to the gym as Waldau. It also also about two blocks from the local DAV chapter’s headquarters, DAV Sektion Schwaben, which includes a library and gear rental.

The gym has a small cafe serving both caffeinated and alcoholic beverages (it’s Germany) and the typical long green beer tables outdoors. There are very few top ropes available as it is generally seen as something reserved for beginners. Therefore, any TR routes are usually going to max out at 5.5 YDS. Around 90% of the routes are lead, though you can always follow which many people also do. For boulderers, there are three separate bouldering areas.

Two highlights for me are that there’s ledge on one of the walls setup to create a two pitch climb where people can practice multipitch technique. No permission, training or anything else required. Just try it. The same can be done outdoors as well.

The second highlight is the outdoor area consisting of an outer building wall  as well as a large, modern-art esque structure covered in bolts and features. It’s a great way to get your outdoor fix when the crag is too far away. Unlike indoors, here you’re required to use your own quickdraws.

Route Logic / System

Routes are defined by hold color, NOT tape. So the entirety of a route will all be the same color. Volumes can be used IF they can be used to bolt additional holds onto. A volume which does not accept further bolt on holds is only for use on the route of its color.

Admin & Legal

This is Germany! There are no belay tests, certifications or anything similar. Don’t be stupid is the motto. You’ll sign a one paragraph document agreeing to follow the gym’s rules and that’s it. Climbers must bring their own rope and quickdraws (for outside) though you can rent everything should you forget.

Family Friendly!

The DAV Kletterzentrum Stuttgart is very family friendly for those of us with kids to think of. There is a small children’s climbing area that is enclosed as well as a large playground outdoors with a sandbox, slide, bridge, swings and more. There is no childcare on site which is unusual here (and in my experience, in the US too) so keep the little one’s in view.

Photo Gallery:

If you can accept I’m not a professional photographer and just a guy using his phone, please enjoy an impromptu series of snaps from my last visit.

 

Better Belaying Workshop – Stuttgart

Better Belaying Workshop – Stuttgart

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There’s a Better Belaying Workshop in Stuttgart on Tuesday March 21st and Saturday April 1st. The gym has a one-of-a-kind belay simulator that consists of a vertically oriented rail. A dummy climber is lifted up and dropped. The height and amount of slack are adjustable. The workshop costs 25 EUR and helps people gain experience catching falls in TR, lead and lead when falling before making a clip. They also have multiple belay devices for climbers to try out. Feedback is given on technique, movement and so forth. The class is outdoors and 2.5 hours and I think something everyone could benefit from. See photo of flyer for details.

 

Better Belaying Workshop