Just got back from a daytrip to France and packed for tomorrow. Gorgeous weather and hoping it stays that way for my trip to nearby Calw. Aside from being the home of Hermann Hesse, it also has some good sandstone climbing so I’m headed to Kentheim with a friend and maybe Oelaenderle if time allows. Pics, crag info and more to come.
Battert! I’ve wanted to climb here since first seeing the pictures in my Black Forest guidebook. It’s the most unique crag in southern Germany and the trad mecca of the region. It’d been rainy for several days before and I was convinced we’d have to call it off. It was even gray and rainy here in Stuttgart the morning of, but by the time we were near the crag, the sky was blue and sunny. Granted, the rain started in around 13:30 but by then we’d managed to get several climbs in and just being there and doing Blockgrat was already a great day for me.
- Height: 80 meters
- Routes: ~350
- Grades: UIAA 3 to 8
- Rock: Quartz-Porphyry
- Distance from Stuttgart: 1.5hrs by car
- Approach: 15 minutes, very well maintained, flat path.
- Protection: Almost all trad, a bolt or two here and there. Belays often bolted.
- Walk off: Yes and No.
- Guidebook: Kletterführer Schwarzwald Nord
- Family friendly: Sort of. The approach is easy, short and flat, even stroller friendly. The base of the climbs vary. Definitely doable and no steep drop offs or so.
Battert stands out among all other crags in southern Germany for it’s size, rock type, rock quality and that it’s trad. The huge offering of multipitch routes, 25 different sectors, 350 climbs and beauty make unique and a must for anyone in the area. The Swabian Alb is chossy, pocketed limestone and almost entirely single pitch. Where in the world Battert came from can be left to geologists to explain. As you may have now guessed, it is a popular area and beloved climbs like Blockgrat can be busy on the weekends. So per my usual advice, either go during the week or be there at sunrise on the weekend.
Getting to Battert:
From Stuttgart you first take the A8 to Karlsruhe and switch to the A5 going south. Once on the A5, get off at the exit Rastatt Nord and head towards the town of Kuppenheim and then to Ebersteinburg. After the traffic circle in Ebersteinburg, take a right into Herrenhaeckerstrasse and follow it until the end. It’s going to seem like you’re lost or took a wrong turn into some random suburb, but stay the course. At the end there’ll be a little dirt road you turn into and there’s the parking lot. At the end of the lot you’ll find the path to the crag. It’s a very easy approach. See photos below for details.
Popular climbs at Battert
With nearly 350 routes, there are many favorites. Here are just a few:
- Blockgrat – 2 pitches, UIAA 4+ / YDS 5.5; trad; Blockgrat sector
- Weg der Freundschaft – 3 pitches; UIAA 5+ / YDS 5.7; a few bolts, mostly trad; Falkenwand sector. Easy and direct route up the highest part of Battert.
- Hallweg – 3 pitches; First ascent was an onsight free solo in 1926! UIAA 5+ / YDS 5.5 mostly trad; Falkenwand sector.
- Lohnmuellerkamin -1 pitch UIAA4+ / YDS 5.5; trad; Cima della Madonna & Sass Maor sector
Finally, I’ve added most of these photos to Mountain Project and made the corresponding areas and routes to help everyone else.
Battert Climbing Pictures
Supposed to go with a friend to Battert tomorrow for the whole day. Been rainy this week and hoping tomorrow stays dry.