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relating to the Black Forest or Schwarzwald

Crag Info: Kentheim – Climbing in Nagoldtal near Calw

Crag Info: Kentheim – Climbing in Nagoldtal near Calw

Located just south of Calw in a neighborhood of the same name, Kentheim is a popular sandstone crag with an easy approach. With beautiful Black Forest spruce trees all around, plenty of morning sun and good sandstone with lots of nice pockets and a few cool cracks, this place can get busy with locals. Moreover, it’s just a few minute drive from several other crags making it easy do some Kentheim climbing and then try other places.

Kentheim Climbing Overvew:

  • Height:  20 meters
  • Routes: 27
  • Grades: Good mix of easy and moderate, a few hard ones
  • Rock: Weathered sandstone
  • Distance from Stuttgart: 45 min
  • Approach: 5 minutes, car to crag
  • Protection: Mostly newish bolts in good shape
  • Walk off: No
  • Guidebook: Kletterführer Schwarzwald Nord
  • Family friendly: Yes! Flat, easy approach. No strollers.

Kentheim: Getting there & Approach

Head to Calw from wherever you are and take the B63 south to the area of town called Kentheim. It’s just a minute or two south of the center. Right before the obvious railroad bridge, use the parking lot on the right. Get out and walk past the railroad bridge towards the first street on your right, Roetelbachweg. Instead of taking that street, go uphill to your right through the grass in the direction of parking/the bridge. It’s 2 or 3 minutes from there and only slightly uphill. The base of the crag is totally flat.

Kentheim Crag Details

Made of weathered sandstone, the rock is good as is the friction. There are lots of nice little pockets throughout the wall but whateer you choose, it’s slab climbing all the way. There are a few nice cracks to use too. Nuts and hexes aren’t realy useful here but a few cams are nice for run outs and very high first bolts. The base of the crag is flat so good for kids but the plants around aren’t to be played in. I don’t know the German name anymore, but it’s a little like poison ivy (but not as serious) so avoid them yourself and you dont want kids messing around in them and getting an itchy rash.

The crag gets lots of morning sun which can be great in winter and brutal in summer. By the afternoon it’s shady again so choose your time based on the time of year. And if slab climbing in Kentheim isn’t your thing, do a few easy routes and head on over to nearby Oelaenderle or Fuchsklinge which are just a few minutes drive.

 

Pictures: Climbing in Kentheim

Calw tomorrow

Calw tomorrow

Just got back from a daytrip to France and packed for tomorrow. Gorgeous weather and hoping it stays that way for my trip to nearby Calw. Aside from being the home of Hermann Hesse, it also has some good sandstone climbing so I’m headed to Kentheim with a friend and maybe Oelaenderle if time allows. Pics, crag info and more to come.

Ready for climbing in Calw.
Ready for climbing in Calw.
Battert climbing – The Jewel and Trad Mecca of southern Germany

Battert climbing – The Jewel and Trad Mecca of southern Germany

Battert! I’ve wanted to climb here since first seeing the pictures in my Black Forest guidebook. It’s the most unique crag in southern Germany and the trad mecca of the region. It’d been rainy for several days before and I was convinced we’d have to call it off. It was even gray and rainy here in Stuttgart the morning of, but by the time we were near the crag, the sky was blue and sunny. Granted, the rain started in around 13:30 but by then we’d managed to get several climbs in and just being there and doing Blockgrat was already a great day for me.

Quick Facts:

  • Height: 80 meters
  • Routes: ~350
  • Grades: UIAA 3 to 8
  • Rock: Quartz-Porphyry
  • Distance from Stuttgart: 1.5hrs by car
  • Approach: 15 minutes, very well maintained, flat path.
  • Protection: Almost all trad, a bolt or two here and there. Belays often bolted.
  • Walk off:  Yes and No.
  • Guidebook: Kletterführer Schwarzwald Nord
  • Family friendly: Sort of. The approach is easy, short and flat, even stroller friendly. The base of the climbs vary. Definitely doable and no steep drop offs or so.

Battert Overview:

Battert stands out among all other crags in southern Germany for it’s size, rock type, rock quality and that it’s trad. The huge offering of multipitch routes, 25 different sectors, 350 climbs and beauty make unique and a must for anyone in the area. The Swabian Alb is chossy, pocketed limestone and almost entirely single pitch. Where in the world Battert came from can be left to geologists to explain. As you may have now guessed, it is a popular area and beloved climbs like Blockgrat can be busy on the weekends. So per my usual advice, either go during the week or be there at sunrise on the weekend.

Getting to Battert:

From Stuttgart  you first take the A8 to Karlsruhe and switch to the A5 going south. Once on the A5, get off at the exit Rastatt Nord and head towards the town of Kuppenheim and then to Ebersteinburg. After the traffic circle in Ebersteinburg, take a right into Herrenhaeckerstrasse and follow it until the end. It’s going to seem like you’re lost or took a wrong turn into some random suburb, but stay the course. At the end there’ll be a little dirt road you turn into and there’s the parking lot. At the end of the lot you’ll find the path to the crag. It’s a very easy approach. See photos below for details.

Popular climbs at Battert

With nearly 350 routes, there are many favorites. Here are just a few:

  • Blockgrat – 2 pitches, UIAA 4+ / YDS 5.5; trad; Blockgrat sector
  • Weg der Freundschaft – 3 pitches; UIAA 5+ / YDS 5.7; a few bolts, mostly trad; Falkenwand sector. Easy and direct route up the highest part of Battert.
  • Hallweg – 3 pitches; First ascent was an onsight free solo in 1926! UIAA 5+ / YDS 5.5 mostly trad; Falkenwand sector.
  • Lohnmuellerkamin -1 pitch UIAA4+ / YDS 5.5; trad; Cima della Madonna & Sass Maor sector

Finally, I’ve added most of these photos to Mountain Project and made the corresponding areas and routes to help everyone else.

Battert Climbing Pictures