Stuhlfels is a well known and much loved crag in Baden-Würtemberg. It is centrally located in the state, has a short approach, boasts beautiful views of the Danube Valley and has a multitude of easy multipitch routes for beginners.
- Height: up to 100m
- Routes: 62 (1/3 are 5.8 and below)
- Rock: Limestone
- Distance from Stuttgart: 1:20 by car
- Approach: 10 minutes, all uphill
- Protection: A mix of new and old bolts, walk off possible
- Family friendly: Meh. Not friendly, but not bad either.
- Guidebook: Kletterführer Donautal
- Bonus: the views!
Stuhlfels towers above the little village of Hausen im Tal on the Danube. It’s a short walk to the town and has gorgeous views of the valley. Moreover, it has many easy routes and is mostly more than 90 degrees making it a perfect destination for new climbers and especially those doing their first multipitch.
I’ll always have fond memories of Stuhlfels. Coming from a rather flat area of the US, it was my first opportunity to climb a multipitch route. After months of reading and practicing (yes, my gym has 2 pitch routes setup so you can practice!), I then showed my fellow first-timer Aussie friend the belay techniques and we sailed up Irisweg. Afterwards, we of course made sure to exchange innuendo filled comments like “I’m happy my first time was with you” and that we’d finally popped our multipitch cherry together, etc.
But Stuhlfels isn’t just for beginners. If you’re willing to stick with the 5.10 routes and up, you’ll have them mostly to yourself! But no matter what you climb, get there early or go on weekdays. Otherwise it can get crowded. The best times on the weekend are to be there around sunrise (which probably comes from the hunter in me) or late afternoon. During the week it won’t mater. Also watch for the “Schulferien” or school vacation times when roads (and generally everything) get crowded.
Popular climbs at Stuhlfels:
Being well known for easy multipitch routes, the most popular climbs reflect that. Given in UIAA grades, they are: