Crag Info: Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen

Crag Info: Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen

Near the town of Kircheim unter Teck and Owen, is a set of three crags known as Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen, i.e. Neuffener parking lot crags. And they live up to the name. Indeed, the approach hike is about 2 minutes from the parking lot to rock. It’s typical limestone with fewer pockets than you’d expect. A lot of blank areas and a few polished parts on popular climbs.

Quick Facts:

  • Height: up to 20 meters
  • Routes: ~62 (2/3 being easy and moderate)
  • Grades: UIAA 3 to 8
  • Rock: Limestone
  • Distance from Stuttgart: ~30min by car
  • Approach: 2 minutes, downhill, steep
  • Protection: Bolts, not new, not too old either
  • Walk off:  Yes and No.
  • Guidebook: Kletterführer Lenninger Alb
  • Family friendly: No

Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen Overview:

Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen are made up of three separate crags right next to each other. Coming down the trail from the parking lot, you can head right to Fels 1, or left to Fels 3. Each crag is just a minute or two from the other making switching back and forth very easy. Since there’s very little room at the base, you’ll probably want to as soon as a group arrives.

Located nearby Burg Hohenneuffen (Wikipedia in English), the crag has great views of the castle and surrounding area. However, that also means there are a lot of hiking trails in the area including to the castle – and all from the same parking lot. So it pays to arrive early and get a spot. There’s plenty of parking but I’m an early bird and will always recommend an alpine start, even to a single pitch crag =)

Popular climbs at Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen

Given how many easy and moderate climbs there are, it’s hard to identify favorites.

  • Katerkiller direkt – 6; Fels 1, steep route on a series of good flakes.
  • Jedermann – 6;  Fels 3, Well protected and “ideal” climbing per guidebook.
  • Razia – 5; on Fels 3, said to be one of the best easy climbs in the region.

Getting There

The crag is very easy to access by car though the drive takes you through several villages which are horrible choke points for weekend traffic. A Saturday climb may take twice as long to get home due to tiny 2 lane village roads. So get there early and leave late! Though, if you live in Germany you already realize Stau is a national pastime.

From Stuttgart, take the A8 southeast (towards Munich) and exit onto the B465 in Kirchheim unter Teck. Take exit 57-Kirchheim unter Teck-Ost.  Drive south on the 465 towards the village of Owen. Once there, take L1210 west (also Beurenerstrasse) towards Beuren and head south on Weilersteige (K1262) to Erkenbrechtsweiler. Once you reach the town, head west on the K1244 towards “Hohenneuffen” (the castle). As the asphalt ends, there’s a parking lot on the left hand side. Bear to your left at the parking lot. Once out of your car, you’ll see a small sign and path heading downhill. It’ll be fairly obvious which way goes to the rock.

Summary

Overall, the crag is a “meh” in my opinion. Not bad if you’re close but better ones within the same driving distance from Stuttgart. It’s similar to many other crags in the area in terms of size, height, route number and the limestone features. There are more interesting crags the same distance and other rock in the Black Forest for example, such as the excellent sandstone in Kentheim.

Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen: Photos

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