Schreyfels is another popular crag in the Danube Valley. As soon as I saw a picture of Opakante in my guidebook, it went straight to the top of my list and I’m hoping to go back as soon as weather (and free time) permits.
I visited Schreyfels last summer with an Australian friend for one last climb before he flew home. We arrived at sunrise and were first on the rock. Being another crag cut by the Danube, its views are fantastic. Climbers can look over small villages stretching out the length of the valley dotted with crags in every direction. This is one of the most popular regions to climb in Baden-Württemberg and offers about 30 different crags in a small area along the river. It’s the kind of rural German landscape scenes that foreigners like to imagine full of Fachwerkhäuser .
- Height: 70m
- Routes: 27
- Grades: 4 routes < 5.6 | 15 routes between 5.9-5.10c/d
- Rock: Limestone
- Distance from Stuttgart: 1:20 by car
- Approach: 10-15 minutes uphill
- Protection: Mix of new and old bolts.
- Walk off: No. rappel only
- Guidebook: Kletterführer Donautal
- Family friendly: No
Schreyfels is located not far from Hausen im Tal and Stuhlfels. The “village” or rather collection of a few houses where it’s located is called Langenbrunn, but that may not be easy to find on a map or GPS. Luckily, it’s just a few kilometers drive from Hausen i.T. In contrast to Stuhlfels, it only has a handful of easy climbs and offers mostly moderate to hard multipitch routes.
For Opakante specifically, you don’t need to bring any trad gear. There are a handful of places you could place it if you want, but it’s never absolutely necessary. Do make sure to bring alpine draws that you can extend out to 60cm.
Popular climbs at Stuhlfels:
Being especially well known for Opakante and multipitch routes, the most popular climbs reflect that. Here are the four probably most popular routes at Schreyfels (in UIAA):
- Opakante: 3+, 3+, 3+
- Weg der Jugend: 5+, 6-, 5
- Brot und Speck: 5-, 6-, 5+
- Dülferverschneidung: 6-, 6
Similar to Stuhlfels, the best bet is to head for Hausen im Tal (Hausen i.T. on road signs). As always, be very careful of speeding as soon as you’re off the highway or B27. Small towns will nail you with speed cameras. From Hausen, it’s just a few minutes west along the river to a tiny village called Langenbrunn.
Once you see the Langenbrunn sign, drive 800 meters and stop at the very first parking lot on the right (it’s the only one). I missed it the first time because it’s so small and easy to overlook/ignore. Park and you’ll immediately see the crag sign at the trailhead. Once on the trail, there are several further signs directing climbers to the crag (see pictures below).
Where to stay:
You can either stay at the DAV Ebinger Haus directly in Hausen im Tal or camp directly on the Danube at Camping Wagenburg. That is where most climbers base themselves. But this is of course also an easy day trip from Stuttgart and takes about 1:20 one-way.
Schreyfels Gallery from my visit: